Thread gestartet von Jakko

hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
37 Bilder
Early M2 half-track car
1:35
The M2 HB machine gun is from an RFM Sherman VC kit as I thought it’s better than the one that came with this halftrack ...
Projekt: Early M2 half-track car
17 31 March 2024, 15:22

Watch the Cab to Chassis interface on this kit. My GMGC had some difficulty with that!
1 April 2024, 03:46

Thanks for the heads-up. I've been dry-fitting the floor and the rear body (main parts already built) and they seem to fit well enough to the chassis, but I won't know for sure until I get the cab built, of course.
1 1 April 2024, 08:42

I was the same for mine! I still think I messed something up. But they look great when finished!
1 April 2024, 18:20

I have seen somebody build a Dragon M3 halftrack, and he had some trouble lining up the cab and the back half, so I think it will pay to keep a close eye on fit straight from the start.
1 1 April 2024, 20:21

There are those who suggest using liquid cement on the decals in extreme cases like this but I have not tried it.
2 8 February, 14:18

Solvaset is my extreme go to. I like the Mr. Softer to make them lay down better. Then Mr. Setter. These work well for me.
1 8 February, 16:27

Thanks for the tips, but unfortunately I don't have any of those 🙁 Well, I do have liquid cement but I'm not sure how that would help, and I'm kind of hesitant to try it for fear of ruining the decal.
I think I'll just add some dirt to cover up the worst parts.
1 8 February, 18:41

I think Ricardo tried the liquid cement and it worked, but I would be hesitant as well.
1 8 February, 18:42

One I use, is to slice through the bubble, then with a thin brush work some future under the decal.
3 8 February, 19:18

Here's the album where Ricardo used extra thin to fix silvering: Shackleton MR.3 (WIP) | Album by RReis (1:72) - you might reach out to him. I've done what Augie suggests but with the tamiya mark fit and it fixed bubbly places.
It can be amazingly hard to find stuff on scalemates!
2 8 February, 21:09

Are you poking holes in the decal so the decal solution can get under the plastic? Putting it on top won't do much.
2 8 February, 22:08

My way of coping with this problem is to cut away the transparent part of the decal or use dry transfer decals.
1 9 February, 10:19

These ARE dry transfers 🙂 I put them onto transparent decal sheet because of the difficulty of applying dry transfers by themselves on the engine covers of this halftrack — had this been a tank, I would have put them directly onto the model and avoided the whole problem, like you say.
1 9 February, 11:34