István Szücs
I'm watching, one of my favourite car!

Mark W Auteur
Thanks! Kei cars are an amazing thing. These over fenders were a universal free file, first for shows that it'll be a bit of a struggle to get fit. But a challenge isn't a bad thing.

Mark W Auteur
Well... First attempt at glueing the over fenders on was a failure.
BSI Super Gold+ was used, felt like it was good, then I set the body down and half of them just popped off. Sanding super glue off a kit body is for the birds. And if this fails 2 or 3 more times I won't have fenders to glue over fenders on to :/

Wondering if I should try a different super glue, a 5 minute epoxy, gorilla glue contact adhesive, or a NOT free file for over fenders? I am currently testing the BSI and contact adhesive on an old kit. I plan on filling the gaps with Tamiya putty tomorrow. But I'll be browsing other STLs until then.

Mark W Auteur
Would anybody share what grit sand paper they get up to on prep work before laying primer down?
I took this up to 1000# wet sanding but I'm not happy with it. I'm wondering if I need to go finer, or if I need to use hobby paper vs this wet paper from the auto parts store?

Mike Thomas
"Wondering if I should try a different super glue..."

I wonder if resin type has anything to do with the glue/adhesion? I used Elegoo Water Washable Resin and dollar store superglue on a few projects. Never had an issue with parts falling off. Also, I pretty well use God Hand sanding sponges exclusively.

Mark W Auteur
Thanks Mike. I am also using Elegoo Water Washable and I used is the BSI super glue gentle enough for painted and clear parts. I'll try a cheap bottle on a test kit next.
The auto part store sand paper does goes from paper to sponge at 2000 grit, so I'll try to take it a step finer before laying more primer. If that doesn't work I guess I'll buy something specialty.

Yngve N
I'm joining in on this

Mark W Auteur
I made the rookie mistake of thinking a Champaign Pearl color would spray like any other color...
My sad excuse for a desk lamp and my hubris proved that to be false. Worst job I've ever done at painting.
I tried some simple green to strip (to no avail) and ended up solving all of my problems with bigger problems. So now I'm sitting back in black primer with a few spots that I can't sand out without altering the shape of the body noticably.

Now I'm deciding if I'll pivot to a different color and live with some budget franchise body work finish, or if it's going to get the heavy weathering treatment.

Ben M
Perfect plastic putty can fix anything.

Dave
That a beautiful Color for that body style.

István Szücs
Very good color for the body, so happy!

Daniel H
Fellow fan of Purple Power for stripping plastics. Works a treat on gaming minis and models as well.

Mark W Auteur
Funny enough this is Mr Hobby Gundam Color MS Green (the Zaku II color) over Mr Hobby grey primer.
I am quite happy with how it looks on this kit.
Also... I really need to buy more Purple Power.

Ben M
I use dot 3 brake fluid.

Bozzer
I'm also a brake fluid man. Just make sure that you get every single bit of paint off. In details and hard areas, I use an old toothbrush. Once it's all off, I rinse well with cold water, then when dry, wash the whole thing with soap and water, and let air dry. It's probably too much cleaning, but I like to be sure.

Mark W Auteur
I appreciate the input. I'm honestly surprised that brake fluid doesn't attack plastic... But it makes sense when you stop and think about the fluid reservoir being plastic under the hood/bonnet. I've got a bottle that's been open long enough to not trust using for brakes, I'll have to try it out on a kit.

Martin Oostrom
RE: sanding.
I sand my bodies with a Tamiya 600 grit sponge. Then it is primer time 2k or Mr Surfacer Grey 1200, mixed 50/50 with Mr Self Levelling Thinner.
After curing, sand the primer with a Tamiya 3000 grit sponge. Then base colour. 3 thin layers, depending on the paint and colour. If necessary sand with 8000 grit Alclad cloth. Then 2k clear.
Sand if necessary and polish with Tamiya compounds.
Rinse and air dry after each sanding, remove the last traces of dust with a static brush or air from your airbrush (if you own one).

Mark W Auteur
I did pick up some Tamiya sponges and they are MUCH easier to use on a body with a lot of exaggerated curves like this kit. I'll still have to pick up one or two other grit packs because there was a weird, non sequential, stock when I stopped into the store the other day.

But I hear you, I should be going to a finer grit after priming for a mirror finish.
Do you use the 8000# on a metallic/pearl base as well?

Bozzer
Just a heads up...
Only use Dot3 and Dot4 brake fluid. Apparently, there are others that are NOT kind to plastic?
And also, thick bleach is my preferred method of removing chrome. However, some chromes are treated to a clear coat? This needs to be removed by the brake fluid first.
A 30 minute bath, is usually enough to get the ball rolling.

Martin Oostrom
Mark, only if it's needed.

Mark W Auteur
Didn't give this the full photo treatment because it turned into a chore instead of a pleasure. I love Kei cars, but every kit I've done of one has been almost entirely problems...
Probably going to do a straight build next to try to get some groove back.

That said, I don't hate it and there are a few parts I'm proud of.
But I am glad to be done with it!