Vlákno začal Hardosaur
Maksim Kurmazpridal nový fotoalbum.
49 17 March, 19:40
Cristian AWonderful, well done! What paint have you used for the dark gray? Looks spot on. 👍
Found my answer in your project description, cheers!
" three different colors - Dark Ghost Gray, Medium Gray (from US Navy/Marines schemes) and MiG Gray in 1:1:1 ratio"
1 18 March, 21:06
Maksim Kurmaz autorHi @Cristian, please DM me if you need more details. This color is not for regular Su-24M, it is darker and more bluish than usual. For regular Su-24M, would be better to take one of the Soviet/MIG Grays (I have one from Vallejo that is too warm and light and one from AK that is quite correct) and add a bit of Dark Ghost Gray.
1 18 March, 21:50
Cristian AGreat tips, thank you, much appreciated. Do you know the code from AK? I prefer those over Vallejo.
1 18 March, 22:45
Maksim Kurmaz autor@Cristian As I understand, you're using RealColor paints, and I can clearly understand why. In my situation, I cannot use lacquer paints, so in the water-based domain, Vallejo are very good choice. RC336 is the analog of the color I've used from AK line.
1 19 March, 20:30
Cristian AThanks, Maksim! I definitely prefer lacquer paints since they spray much more easily. With acrylics, I feel like I have less control—it's easy to get clogging or tip dry, which can ruin a model. Plus, even with a topcoat, acrylics aren't as resistant to decal setting solutions in my experience. Maybe 2–3 coats would help. For Vallejo, my best results came from mixing 50% paint, 40% flow improver, and 10% Vallejo thinner. May I ask what is the thinning ratio you use for Vallejio?
19 March, 21:56
Maksim Kurmaz autor@Christian Vallejo's Model Air (not Model Color) are quite thinned already, so I'm adding just 10-20% of improver and equal amount of thinner, but no more than 33% of both, otherwise the paint will make wet surface with visible overflow, much as recommended by Vallejo. Pressure of 20 PSI seems to be OK for painting from short distance. But you need to watch for "sharkskin" (don't know how it is called). No less than 3 layers of primer and than 3 layers of paint are required.
I tried lacquers just couple of times, and they stick to the surface very well. You would want to stay with them if you can, because as far as I can understand, they give you very smooth even surface which is almost impossible with water-based.
2 20 March, 20:45
Łukasz GlińskiVery true Maksim, had similar experience with acrylics and lacquers (that I currently use). Thx for sharing the details 👍
PS You might mean the orange peel effect I guess 🙂 Very poetic name you've got for it 👍
2 21 March, 12:49
Maksim Kurmaz autorHi Lukasz, sometimes they call it "sandpaper effect", which I believe happens due to fast drying of small drops. Adding flow improver is the best way to avoid it, but the paint does not fix when being too diluted. So we need patience and many layers one by one.
For me the best discovery was that I need to moisture and clean the needle tip every other minute. Somehow I overlooked this trick when watching video tutorials. It really helps against clogging.
1 21 March, 17:38
Rui SHello Maksim, you are right thats a great word to describe that. I've had this problem twice (One when I painted the maxim machine gun in the diorama "The unexpected Finland resistance - T26" photo 207, and the second time, in the trailer of the "Esci sdkfz 10/4").
The problem arises when I dilute Tamiya paints with alcohol isopropanol . The paint, when atomized by the airbrush, dries almost immediately, so it doesn't look good like orange peel (more like small wavy) because it's already so dry when it hits the surface that it doesn't mix/blend. Trying to correct the paint I added paint retarder. I don't have flow improver.
However, it is an effect that can be interesting for some harder finishes, but has nothing to do with soft finishes that will be completed ruined by that sandpaper effect.
2 21 March, 17:50