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Ron Garcia
This kit is really about the paint job and decals, so I'll confine my comments to these two items.

If you use the Gunze paints and mixing suggestions, the colors will perfectly match the kit decals. I've built seven of these iDOLM@STER kits now, and I have to say, the paint color choice is the least inspired of all of them. I understand why it was chosen as the anime character is outfitted in grey, but it does make a rather dull, rather than eye popping, color scheme. The stripes, as well, are a metallic grey, so they kind of blend into the background.

I usually paint all the white sections rather than using the decals, but you could probably get away with using the decals this time. I like to paint them because you'll end up painting the leading edges white anyway. However, they are designed better than the other kits because they leave appropriate gaps where necessary. The sole exception is the large white stripe on the belly. There should be a cut out where the inboard elevon actuator is, but it is absent. It requires a bit of care masking, but it will be easier than trying to make that stripe conform over that section.

The decals are nice but a bit uninspired. The roses look good, but the red petals(?) look like red splots. They look nice after they are all applied, but they don't have the wow factor of the decals on the other kits. As usual, they are very stiff so use plenty of decal softener to get them to conform to the surface.

Overall, the kit looks very nice once completed. It is not quite as eye popping as the other kits in the series, but it does look good. I built the Bronze Tiger Eurofighter and I have to say, the Bronze Tiger looks better than this one. However, my wife does like this kit, so that's a bonus. If you have built the other kits in this series, you may bit a little disappointed by how it looks compared to the others, but it is still worth your time to have this kit in your collection.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
Oof! This model will definitely test your decaling skills! The kit itself is pretty easy to build. Any problems with it I already detailed in the comments section of the 04568 version, so I'll concentrate on the decals.

First of all, leave off anything that will protrude before you start applying the decals. This includes the landing gear doors and maybe even the nose landing gear itself. Besides the obvious stuff like antennas and such, I left off all four parts B76, both parts B77, both parts A38, and both elevon actuators. All these things will definitely interfere with decal placement. I already attached the landing gear doors but had to snap them off (luckily, I always use CA glue for those after they are painted) because the decals butt right up to the landing gear wheel wells.

Decal 23 fits over the nose landing gear wheel well. I had to carefully cut the clear film from it so I could slide it over the already installed nose landing gear. Decals 60 and 61 also required surgery to make them fit on top of the intake. I sliced all the stripes apart and jigsawed what I thought made it look nice.

I suggest that you apply the decals in this order: pylons and external fuel tanks, the entire bottom, and finally the entire top and sides.

Start with the pylons and tanks just to get some practice in so you know what you're getting yourself into! Decaling the fuel tanks was actually quite difficult because the decal numbers are repeated in several different views. The first one you do will probably be quite confusing.

The next session, tackle the bottom but give yourself plenty of time to finish it so you can line everything up with the other decals. This session was the most time consuming because of the sheer amount of decals that need to be placed. I cut off a molded on antenna near the aft section because I was unsure of where to slice the decal to drape it over it (I glued it back on afterwards). There is another molded on antenna near the radome, but it is too tiny to cut off. However, if you carefully slice decal 99 lining up the two center squares on it, it'll slip over it with no problem.

Finally, do the top and sides at the same time so you can line everything up. There are less decals so this section isn't as tedious. The only trouble I ran into here was on either side of the fuselage in the crack above the intake, the decals that go there just wouldn't line up. I cut the stripes apart on them to make them look right.

Whew! That was it. It was a very time consuming job to say the least!

There are a few other things I should mention.

This one is a no brainer, but use decal setting solution! There are lots of nooks and crannies that the decals need to conform to, so this is a must. The decals worked perfectly with Miro Sol and Micro Set.

I painted my kit Tamiya X-33 Bronze. I then overcoated it with Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange. This combo is not as orange as the real paint scheme, but I knew it wouldn't be since I tested it out beforehand. My version looks like a very shiny warm bronze, and I liked the look of it when I tested it out.

Not all the decal stripes will line up - I know, shocker! - but they will be close enough that a small touch up of black will do the trick.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention Alistair and his company Aerocraft Models. The canopy has a nasty seam on it that needs to be removed. I buffed it out, but in the process I must have over stressed the plastic. When I test fitted the canopy over part E83 it suddenly cracked at least a few centimeters. Luckily, Aerocraft Models came to the rescue. I ordered the Eurofighter EF-2000A replacement canopy from them. The canopy was crystal clear and fit perfectly. It does require a steady hand with a Dremel cutting disk to remove the excess resin so be careful if you go this route.

Once finished, the kit looks great. It really stands out next to the many grey aircraft on my shelf. My wife even liked it, so there's that. Was it worth it? I think so, but it took a lot of work. If applying decals isn't your thing, this kit is an easy skip.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
If you have this version of the kit, the first thing you need to do is download the decal instructions for the one that says "2 Points" on the box. The decal numbers in this on are all wrong! Since the download instructions for the 2 Points one are really bad looking, it's worth 10 minutes of your time to transfer the correct numbers onto this set. Speaking of the decals, slice the formation lights on the rudder (decal 162, incorrect) in two vertically before you apply it so they can be applied on either side of the fin. Otherwise, the thickness of the fin doesn't allow the decal to wrap around to the correct position on either side (ask me how I found out!).

I found putting the kit together rather easy. I read some online reviews that said the intakes were a bit difficult, but I thought they were fine. Part 27, required a fair amount of putty to conform to part 26 so I suggest taking care of that before adding parts 29 and 30. While working on the intakes, you should paint part 26A (metallic? black?) just to give the illusion of depth. Otherwise you'll have two (grey in my case) blank engine faces. Not noticeable unless someone picks it up or you set it on a high shelf. However, Revell could have done a better job with this. If you've built any of Hasegawa's 1/48 F-4's, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about.

I don't think I installed the main landing gear wrong, but parts 67 and 70 didn't fit next to the wheel wells correctly without some interference from the main landing gear struts.

There is a nasty seam that runs the length of the canopy so be prepared for some careful buffing to remove it.

Revell provides a good amount of weapons. However, if you go with the pylons in step 39, depending of what weapons loadout you choose, you'll probably be short two weapons. I scrounged a couple of missiles from Hasegawa's anime version.

The painting instructions leave a lot to be desired as they are all (understandably) Revell's brand. I looked at a lot of online sources and matched what seemed reasonable.

Overall, a solid kit and well worth building. It goes together well, so even a beginner can make a decent looking Eurofighter from this kit - just make sure to get the corrected decal numbers first!

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
Finishing my British armor stash, I realized this tank was missing from my collection. Not wanting to wait forever for the Bronco version from China on eBay, and since I never built a kit from Gecko, I picked up this one instead. The kit was nice but challenging!

The tracks were NOT fun! Cutting and cleaning three items per link is tedious. Putting them together was worse. I believe they are supposed to be workable. Good luck with that! You would have to use the tiniest drop of liquid cement on the edges where the top and bottom links trap a pair of mating pins. Capillary action alone will suck the cement right next to the pin rendering it rigid quickly. I didn't care if mine were workable or not; I just wanted them to have enough flexibility so I could wrap them abound the running gear. Testors liquid cement was great for this as it has a slower setting time. Putting all those links together, takes a long time. A six link jig is provided but it is pretty useless. Being styrene like the tracks, the jig will quickly accumulate cement and glue itself to the tracks. You pretty much have to put them together two to three links at a time on whatever surface works best for you. Did I already mention tedious?

The only other pain was the exhaust. It would take too much time to accurately describe how overly complicated it is. I will give one tip, though. The two PE parts 11 will not fit on the attachment pins once parts Ea55 and Ea56 are glued together. My suggestion is to cut both parts out, cut each into thirds where the holes for the attachment pins are, and then glue the three separate pieces to the completed exhaust. I didn't figure this out until after I had enclosed the exhaust in the grille and left them off. Those parts are used to attach the braces to the rear of the tank. I managed to get the braces to work without them, but it was time consuming. I'll just sum it up by saying, "Have fun!"

Those two things were the worst part of the kit. Everything else was straightforward except for the jack block bracket. There are two arms that require at least eight bends each in the PE. I gave it a shot just to see what would happen. Predictably, the first arm broke off after the third bend so I tossed the whole assembly. It will look fine without it, and since it was one of the last steps in the kit, it was time to move on.

A partial interior is included as well as a figure, but I didn't use either. The interior because I'm just not into that and the figure because it is molded in a desert uniform and I was modeling a France 1940 version. I do plan to try it with another kit, though.

Comparing this kit to the Bronco A10 is interesting because of the PE. Both companies used PE for parts that the other company molded in styrene (but not everything). Which leads me to say that both kits would have been a whole lot faster to build if they would have skipped most of that PE and used styrene instead.

Overall, you'll get a nice looking model out of this kit. Would I ever build one of these again? Not in a million years!

Ron Garcia
Super easy build. Finished it because Halloween was coming up. I only have a few recommendations for the very few members on this forum that might build this kit.

1) Decals 18 and 19 go over the headlight parts N1. I built mine that way but could never get the decals to look exactly the way I wanted them to. Parts N1 are slightly oval while the decal "eyes" are round. So, you'll end up with part of the decals on the two parts. It looks fine that way, but there is no real way to nudge them to look perfectly circular. You could try and apply the decals before adding parts N1, but because the parts are slightly oval, the decals may look a bit out of proportion. Perhaps the best method would be to paint both N1 parts black and then add a thin black stripe above and below by masking or using decal film. Of course, the white outline of the headlamps would be missing, but the whole kit design is fictional, so would that even matter?

2) Leave the front bumper loose to make decal 21 easier to apply.

3) The directions don't say this, but I saw a promo picture with the rear window tinted red. I did the same and it gives the paint job more character since there are a couple of decals that are applied to it.

4) Originally, I wasn't going to paint the white trim along the top of the vehicle. I didn't think it would be worth the masking hassle. I did it anyway, and I'm glad I did. It breaks up the otherwise solid purple upper portion of the kit. Masking it isn't as bad as it looks if you use some flexible tape like the kind Tamiya sells.

The best thing about the kit is that my wife actually liked one of my models! She doesn't much care for my usual grey aircraft or green tanks no matter how unique they are. Sitting on my shelf next to those kits, it really catches the eye. Highly recommended for a nice diversion from the same 'ol, same 'ol.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
Thirty years later (1994 copyright) and I finally got around to building this kit. Looking at the box, it was a pretty expensive kit for the time. Retail was $55.00, but I got it on sale for 50% off back in the day. Anyway, as old as it is, the molding quality is excellent. As with all Horizon kits, make sure to add plaster of Paris to the hollow legs or the kit will eventually begin to sag.

The fit is decent if you heat the parts in boiling water first and then press them to the its corresponding location so it conforms properly. The upper torso fit to the bottom isn't great, though. No amount of heating and cooling ever got the two sections to fully line up. I ended up letting the back of the torso slightly overhang so the front looked flush.

There is a weird communications gizmo that is supposed to attach to his back and over his shoulders. Since it would just basically sit there with nothing for it to attach to, I left it off. I did a quick internet search of the 1990's Cable and didn't see any images of it so no loss anyway. There are also two strange little parts (24) that are supposed to be shaved off and attached to the forehead(?). I think these are supposed to represent bulging veins. I left them off as well as they didn't look right when I fiddled with their placement.

Since Cable has gone through so many costume changes during his publication history, you have artistic license to paint him however you like. I didn't like the kit painting instructions so I went with more of a classic X-Men color scheme as it seemed more appropriate. Painting was a chore, though. Large areas of metal, flesh, and costume all butt up next to each other. Since most major parts, other than the guns and a couple of stowage packs, are molded together as large pieces, there is no way to paint these sections separately. Once done, though, it does look very nice.

One thing I would have liked to have seen included is a clear part for his left eye to represent light radiating from the glowing eye. Alas, there was no such part so I painted the eye a glossy yellowish orange.

Overall, it is a nice, big kit that really stands out. Painting will take some time, but that's the fun of these types of kits. If this one is still in your stash, blow off all that dust and build it already!

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
Easy kit to build as long as you use boiling water to heat up the vinyl. I learned that with vinyl kits, you better add some sort of filler in the lower torso (I use plaster of Paris), or over time the figures will begin to lean. Heating pieces to be joined, pressing them together, and then running cold water over them helps to reduce the amount of putty needed. The kit needs to be painted in sections. The arms, sledgehammer, and cape should be painted before assembling.

The cape was the only part that caused trouble. Part of it is already attached to the upper torso. The remainder comes in three pieces. The fit wasn't the greatest even after heating it up. Also, the inside of the cape looks a bit rough. With paint and strategic use of shading, most of the flaws can be hidden.

The finished figure is big and impressive - 15 inches from the hammer to the boot. Horizon has long been out of business, so it's doubtful this figure will ever be re-released. I bought it when they were still around. It only took me 30 years before I got around to building it! If you see one on Ebay or a swap meet, it's worth picking up. An obscure comic book character to be sure, but with a nice metal finish (I used Alclad paints on mine) it looks great.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
A very nice kit with an impressive gun! Very straightforward build with no real issues - except one (for me, anyway). Study the instructions carefully, though, because the Dutch army version requires lots of modifications. I went with the German one, but I still almost made a few mistakes here and there.

The only thing that was a MAJOR pain was the tracks. Awful! Inside the kit is a small box that holds all the track pieces. I thought, great, Meng cut out all the pieces already. How wrong I was! The tracks come in three pieces and are designed to be workable. They took FOREVER to cut out and clean up. Seriously, what a waste of time. Luckily, I was taking an online course that featured a lot of audio. That helped me pass the time while cutting out and cleaning up all those pieces. Then you have to put them together...

A piece with two rods on either end needs to be trapped between the upper and lower parts of the track. Very tedious! There is a jig, but since it's made of styrene, you'll end up with a sticky mess if you use it. Since I could care less about working tracks, I glued mine together - one at a time. I laid the rod section on two bottom tracks, sandwiched one side with one top one, laid the next rod piece with the next bottom section, sandwiched that one, and on and on it went. Thank God there are side skirts on the kit. That meant I could get away with going just far enough so that either end of the tracks covered the first return roller on its respective end. That saved some time. I know some of you hardcore armor model enthusiasts will consider this heresy, but considering the tracks are taut anyway, vinyl tracks would have been a way better alternative. Sure, maybe some detail would have been lost, but really, unless you're entering it into a contest, would it really be that noticeable?

I ran into two other slight issues. First, I found PE part X6 interfered with the turret. I placed the part right, but the turret will hit it when rotated. I always pose my turrets with the gun pointing off center and the barrel going over the right front fender, so it wasn't an issue for me. But if you pose yours straight ahead, it will hit it and pop it off. The other issue is the instructions about the length of the towing cable. The directions are written poorly (the English version anyway). It says to CUT OFF 125 mm (or 140 mm for the Dutch version). Usually, the instructions say what the length should be. Of course, I cut mine short, but since I still had the other piece, I was able to make it work.

Other than the nightmare that was the tracks, I really liked this kit. The sorta turtle shell looking turret combined with that awesome gun looks very impressive on my shelf. I'd like to say I recommend this kit, but the tracks just ruined it for me. I'm glad I have this kit in my collection, but if I would have know what a pain the tracks were going to be, I'd have never purchased it. Your opinion, of course, will vary.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
I didn't really want to build this kit. I don't care for the way it looks. It looks like a proper lower hull with a giant cube on top of it. I remember buying this a long time ago from Squadron. It seemed it was on sale cheap for a long time, so one day I added it to an order of some other stuff that I really wanted. Being the last French vehicle in my stash, I bit the bullet and finally built it.

The kit has a complete turret interior with poseable hatches so you can see the inside in it's full glory. You could also probably get away with not gluing the top of the turret so it could be popped off for a full view of interior. Since I was just building this to get it over with, I didn't bother with the building any of it and closed up all the hatches. Saved me a lot of time because of all the painting required.

With one exception, the build itself is pretty straightforward. The PE is reasonable, there are choices for optional parts, and everything fits together with no putty required.

The exception is the tracks. They were very time consuming! Cutting them all out and gluing them one by one took a lot of patience. Yes, gluing them. They are designed to be workable, but in reality, that won't happen. They will pull apart pretty easily as the pins are tiny and weak. There is a jig to help put them together, but if you decide to glue them - and almost certainly you will - you can't use the jig since it's made of styrene and you'll end up with a big mess. I used a slow setting cement (Testors) and was able to drape the tracks nicely around the wheel assembly with no issues. After the glue set, I was able to pop off the tracks, thanks to the polycaps, and paint them separately. Since the real tracks are taut, I would have been totally okay with a set of vinyl tracks. Heresy, I know, but the individual tracks added nothing to the enjoyment of the build. Yes, the suspension is workable, so if you were building a diorama it might be worth it (you'd still have to put a screw through the bottom or some hefty weight in the lower hull to pull it off). Anyway, I just wanted to warn you ahead of time before you decide to build this kit.

So, in the end I have a boxlike vehicle in my collection, and one less kit in my stash. It's not a bad kid by any means, it's just not something I would normally build. Note to self, don't get sucked in by kits on sale you don't really have any desire to have!

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
Pretty easy build. A little experience with PE and individual track links would help, but even someone with just a few tank models under their belts shouldn't have a problem with this kit.

I like how Takom made the wheels separate from the rims. The clear periscopes were also a nice addition. Takom provides plenty of spare links so a bit a sag can be added to the tracks. The PE for the radiators was also nice. The vinyl dust guard is also nicely done.

On the negative side, I just don't understand why Takom has to have such huge sprue gate attachment points to the parts. Some even overlap the parts, making cleanup tedious at times - especially when it is between molded on detail. The brush guards for the double headlights are WAY over engineered. I left off parts TP7 and TP21 altogether and didn't notice it one bit.

The instructions would have you attach the fenders before adding the tracks. Common sense says to reverse that. If you leave the drive sprocket loose, you can simply remove the track assembly after it dries, paint it, and then reattach it with no hassles. The fit of the fenders; however, was not the best. Both sides wanted to sag down instead of staying at a 90 degree angle. Some fast setting cement and sprue wedged between the tracks and the fenders fixed the problem.

Overall, a nice kit for your collection. The unusual oscillating turret makes this model unique, so it is worth having just for that.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
Surprisingly easy build. Not a ton of parts and large, easy to attach PE. I only encountered a few problems with the build.

The tracks. It was great that they were already cut off the sprue and snap together, but... The locking pins are understandably small in order for the track links to snap together. That caused me a problem when trying to snap the last one together as I wrapped one of the sides. The tracks have to be tight so that they don't sag off the road wheels in the front. That put a lot of strain on the pins. I had to selectively put CA glue and accelerator in spots where the links pulled apart. On the other side, the tracks came up a half link short. Absolutely no clue how this could have happened. I ended up cutting an extra link in half and adding it near the rear of the tank. It's only noticeable if you really look hard. After I had the tracks in place, even the most minor of handling would cause one of the track links to pop. I attached them at the very end of the build but before I added the exhaust system (for ease of painting).

I had at least a 4-5mm gap between part A37 and the lower hull. The part is attached in step 4 and then that subassembly is attached to the lower hull in step 10. By then, the cement was totally cured. I added a piece of sheet styrene to fill the gap. I think it was user error. There are two tabs on part A37, and perhaps I should have made sure they completely and firmly attached to the upper hull. Maybe that would have set a better angle (although I thought I did that when I attached the part in the first place).

As stated earlier, I installed the exhaust system as my last step. Painting all the parts off the tank was so much easier. However, there are many small, fiddly parts that attach behind other parts. It took longer than if I had just installed it as laid out in the instructions because it was hard to see where some of the end pieces attached. My suggestion is to leave the engine compartment off the tank, pant the exhaust system and engine compartment separately, attach all the pieces to the engine compartment for ease of viewing, and then attach the engine compartment to the tank as the very last step. The fit is perfect so you shouldn't need to do any paint touch ups.

The above comments aside, this is a really nice kit, and I'm glad I have it in my collection. For your efforts, you'll end up with a huge tank that looks impressive on your shelf. I have it near the FT-17 I recently built and it dwarfs it. Amazing how tank design exploded in just a short amount of time.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
This was a bucket list kit for me. Ever since I got interested in history and model building way back when, I always wanted some company to make a kit of this tank. However, when I bought it, it went into my stash as so many other kits have gone. I finally decided to build all the French tanks I have in my stash and now it's done. It was worth the wait. An overall excellent kit and easy to build.

The tracks were a welcome surprise as they snapped together easily. Just make sure you don't go long with a run because it you pull them apart, you will snap off the locking pins.

The only difficult thing is the paint job. This is the sixth French tank I've built in a row with their crazy - but definitely eye catching - camouflage schemes. I'm getting pretty good at painting them, but it is tedious masking off those hard edged colors. Silly Putty and a Micron pen if your friend when painting them.

Having already built Tamiya's R35 and S35, it's disappointing that all the figures are basically the same. Since this was the first produced of those three, the figure sitting in the back of the turret makes sense (the face is definitely odd looking, though). I didn't want all three of these tanks with pretty much the same figure sitting with the same pose, so I closed up the S35 and used the figure from that kit for this one. The face is big improvement. Anyway, I wish Tamiya would have been more creative with their follow on kit's figures. Just a nitpick.

That aside, this is a great kit. You 204 people who still have it in your stash (at the time of this writing), build it already!

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
All around excellent model. I love the tracks as they simply click into place. Of course my index finger was sore after doing that 208 (I added two extra links per side) times, but WAY better than using slow setting cement for each link and wrapping it around the wheel assembly. PLUS, they were already cut off the sprue and ready to assemble. Why can't all model companies do that? The only trouble I had was with the chain on the back. I had to have my wife help me feed the end links onto the hooks and clasps. Payback for all the times I've had to help her with necklaces and bracelets! So, if you have this kit in your stash, get some Silly Putty (for the paint job) and build it already. You will be pleased with the ease of the build and the final product.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
Nice kit. It goes together quickly, but I did run into a few minor problems, and I have a few suggestions.

1) You can add the tracks after completing the model. I added them right before step 26 so I could use the missing grills on the side to help guide the tracks though.

2) Speaking of the tracks, they come in two pieces per side. I don't know what they are made of, but plastic cement doesn't work on them. Somehow, you are supposed to connect the ends together using two microscopic holes. I could not figure out how to do this, as the pins are too short and soft to go through the openings (were there actually openings, though?). I stapled one section together since it would be hidden, and used CA glue with accelerator (and my wife's help) on the other end. Placed next to the rear road wheel, it looks fine.

3) The plastic is soft! I don't have a problem with this, but be careful when removing any excess plastic from the part or you will easily shave off a bit of the part. Also, part 38 snapped in two when I barely put any pressure on it while trying to slide it over the gun assembly. Not a problem because it is hidden, but it does illustrate how soft the plastic is.

4) If you can keep the coax MG from snapping off during assembly, I bow before your awesomeness! I almost made it, but it finally snapped off during one of the final steps of painting the complex camouflage pattern. Luckily, it landed right in front of me in clear view so I CA glued it back on - after the paint job was done! A stretched piece of sprue would have made an easy replacement.

5) It's pretty obvious but I'll say it anyway, to make your life easier, paint the completed roadwheel assembly before you add parts A5 and A12 . In fact, paint parts A5 and A12 before you add them to the kit to save yourself unnecessary masking.

6) I think parts A1 and A15 are reversed in the instructions. However, I fiddled around with both so much, in the end I wasn't sure anymore. By the way, be careful with the ends that stick out on both parts. I almost snapped off one because - you guessed it - super soft plastic.

7) Steps 24 and 25 were tricky for me. B4 and B5 didn't quite want to sit flush with the hull without some fiddling around with them. The same with the attaching the upper hull to the lower. I got it to work, but I did have to put a bit of putty on some tiny sections that were just a tad off.

8) The kit provides link by link plastic chains and one long chain that seems like metal but is very brittle. I used the long chin by simply cutting off the portion I needed. It worked fine.

So there you have it. The paint scheme probably took longer than actually building the kit. I really didn't know much about this tank, so I kind of like it better than some of the other early war French tanks I have been building lately. I think the look of the turret is unique. If you are trying to build all the Battle of France armor like I am, you should get this kit.

Ron Garcia
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Ron Garcia
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